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Parts? For a 1947 2-ton dodge truck built by T. and J. Richards and Sons.

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2 months 2 weeks ago #249456 by Mrsmackpaul
New radiator is a good investment I always reckon

A lot of these toys we play with are sold that even if the radiator doesn't leak they soon seam to fail when we least expect it

Good job on everything else as well

Paul

Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
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2 months 2 weeks ago #249473 by Southbound
G'day Halfa, it's good to see some progress.
These old engines usually have rust and mud settled in the engine block and once they are used again the heat dislodges the mess and then it is deposited in the top of the new radiator. It's a good idea to remove all of the welch plugs to flush out the block and then fit a filter in the top radiator hose. There is an aftermarket filter available that is easy to clean, although I used a tea strainer on my project ute. Even after flushing my engine block many times the tea strainer collected a lot of mud, so it was well worth the effort.
Cheers Peter 

I'd rather have tools that I don't need, than not have the tools I do need.
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2 months 2 weeks ago #249475 by Lang
I have found putting a sock in the top hose works perfectly. Good water flow but it catches anything that will jam in the tubes.

Lang
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2 months 2 weeks ago - 2 months 2 weeks ago #249486 by PDU
First old car that I had needed some radiator work and the local radiator shop did a quickie clean out, fixed leaks, then flushed block and sold me a "radiator condom" (shades of Lang's sock to keep all the shitty bits getting into the radiator tubes). Struck me as being an apt name for it. 
Last edit: 2 months 2 weeks ago by PDU.
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2 months 2 weeks ago #249509 by Timbo50
Hi Halfa,
lots of people have given you some great info for your project but I dont think anyone sugested where to buy engine parts here in Oz, you only need to contact Auto Surplus in Croydon (outer Melbourne suburb), ph 03 98733566, or check their website and look under Chrysler .
I have dealt with them over 10 years, if any listed part is out of stock they will get it for you. They are great people.
They also have some steering tie rods and king pin kits mostly in stock for your truck... I can tell you the Dufor part # if you want them.

I reckon although your engine is a Canadian one from 46/47 era it is pre the KEW engine range which started coming here in the English truck imports (from the Kew factory). These engines have an extra water(bypass) gallery at the front of the head . it appears as a vertical protrusion between the back of the water pump and as such head gasket sets are not interchangeable with other 25 inch engines. The Canadian factory only made 25 inch engines and I believe supplied all the engines to the Kew factory over the years.
No Detroit made engines ever had this extra water gallery but I dont know when Canada started using it.

I cant see this protrusion on your engine photos....
you can measure the stroke by removing the (1/8th gas thread) blind plug over #6 cylinder and using a long philips screwdriver as a measuring rod, its a head off job to measure the bore. cu in
There is 7 or 8 bore / stroke combinations !! If stroke is 4 1/16 it will be 218 4 1/4 its probably a 228 cu in , 4 1/2 will be 250 cube.
Head off is the only way to know piston size but to my knowledge all internal parts are interchangeable between the Canadian and Detroit 25 inch engines.

Your chassis is 2 ton, dodge "engineered down" so 30cwt, 1 ton and 1/2 ton trucks will have the same basic chassis apart from wheelbase lengths, whilst the king pins are the same stub axles, wheels hubs, diffs and springs vary depend
ing on truck size but the front C-shackles and bushes are all the same.
Hope this helps you out...........

Cheers
Timbo
 
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2 months 2 weeks ago #249512 by HalfaDodgeTruckMan
I forgot to post this information from this book I've been reading, it's very inciteful.
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2 months 2 weeks ago #249554 by Timbo50
Hi again Halfa,
A couple of more tips re serial numbers.....

Your engine number appears to have a trailing letter 'C' (your pic a bit hard to decipher), this indicates it is a Canadian build.

On the l/h/s scuttle (concealed by the bonnet when closed) there should be a TJ Richards "king of the road" serial # plaque measuring 3" x 1 1/2" held on by 2 self tappers.
This plaque will have a (most likely) 5 digit hand stamped # which is the running total of bodies manufactured up to the build date of your vehicle be it car, truck, panel van or whatever...........

Stamped by hand into the body steel on the firewall (in the region of or perhaps behind the voltage regulator should be 'DC' then a 2, 3 or perhaps 4 digit number, this translates to ;
'Dodge Cab',
the numbers relate to sequence number built to date in that body type , utility or panel vans would be 'DU' or 'DV'.
Fargo bodies would FC FU & FV, as I have not ever checked a Desoto I dont know , nor do I know much about KEW Parrot beak style trucks.
Sometimes the 'DC' number might be stamped on the scuttle topside....this number is 5/8" high.All of the above is from practical experience over the years with these old trucks.

you are welcome to ask me any questions as I have helped a mate get his 47 ute back on the road some years back.

may i suggest you get in contact with the SA Chrysler club.








Be wary of American publications as they rarely quote the Canadian historical records .
For the record I have a 37 MC pick-up to which I am fitting a TE1 KEW engine.

cheers
Timbo
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1 month 3 weeks ago #249906 by HalfaDodgeTruckMan
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4 weeks 2 days ago - 4 weeks 2 days ago #250232 by HalfaDodgeTruckMan
Last edit: 4 weeks 2 days ago by HalfaDodgeTruckMan.
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4 weeks 2 days ago - 4 weeks 2 days ago #250233 by HalfaDodgeTruckMan
Last edit: 4 weeks 2 days ago by HalfaDodgeTruckMan.
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