Skip to main content

Bedford J1 - Need help with history

More
2 weeks 1 day ago - 2 weeks 1 day ago #250491 by Splod
I have recently bought a J1 Bedford, six cylinder petrol, four speed, single speed diff.
I am after some information on the year it was built and general restoration tips/advice from the forum.
It is a runner, but the brakes need repairing. I have removed the front wheel cylinders and master cylinder and am taking them to be stainless steel lined and the shoes re-bonded. The rears are proving difficult for me to remove the hubs, to access the brakes.
I was wondering if I can unbolt the rear drum from the hub before trying to remove the hub, so that I do not bend or break the drum. I realise I still have to take the hub off, just don't want to break something. The rear adjusters seem frozen. Wheels turn OK, but I cannot budge the adjusters.
Information I have at hand so far is:
Bedford J1 (1960's?)
Chassis Number:
J1C2 17545311
Engine number:  2/J1/2/3   158183
ID Tag  M004316
BODY: TJ CAB-20971
TRIM: 502-1007
PAINT: 568-9857
12volt Generator
Negative to ground
No seat belts or seat belt mounts
Single drivers sunvisor
119" wheelbase
16" wheels
Single rear wheels
Last edit: 2 weeks 1 day ago by Splod. Reason: Formatting indicators were showing in post
The following user(s) said Thank You: cobbadog, PaulFH, wee-allis

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
2 weeks 1 day ago #250499 by asw120
9857 Woodsman Green. Comes up in 1960 and continues through to 1964.
You can get dates off the glass, back of gauges and most electrical parts (wiper motor, genny, starter.)
Probably a 214 engine.

Jarrod.


“I offer my opponents a bargain: if they will stop telling lies about us, I will stop telling the truth about them”

― Adlai E. Stevenson II
The following user(s) said Thank You: 180wannabe, cobbadog, PaulFH, wee-allis, Splod

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
2 weeks 20 hours ago #250507 by Morris
A workshop manual should be easy to find on the internet or at a swap meet.  It will give you a lot of useful information.

I could not move the brake adjusters on my three-ton Morris but when I took the brakes apart to get new linings, and cleaned everything up, they work fine.  You would not believe how much crud was in there.

I have my shoulder to the wheel,
my nose to the grindstone,
I've put my best foot forward,
I've put my back into it,
I'm gritting my teeth,

Now I find I can't do any work in this position!
The following user(s) said Thank You: cobbadog, PaulFH, Splod

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
2 weeks 7 hours ago - 2 weeks 7 hours ago #250516 by jon_d
Are the rear brakes like this set up?

bridgeclassiccars.co.uk/wp-content/uploa...ssis-Extension-4.jpg

or are the slaves inside the drum, as per the front?

If it's like my bus,  the axle is removed.  Then the nut and locking tab is removed. Then the drum and hub slide off the axle stub.  (or something like this)
Last edit: 2 weeks 7 hours ago by jon_d.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
2 weeks 6 hours ago - 2 weeks 6 hours ago #250518 by Splod
"Are the rear brakes like this set up?
bridgeclassiccars.co.uk/wp-content/uploa...ssis-Extension-4.jpg"

Yes. My setup looks the same (only with a bit more surface rust)
I really need to get a workshop manual - I assumed I would need to remove the drums to remove the slaves.
Can I just unbolt the slave from the back, or do I need to disconnect the shoes etc. from within the drum?
Last edit: 2 weeks 6 hours ago by Splod. Reason: Added quote

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
2 weeks 6 hours ago #250520 by Lang
Might help you. Lots of free download sites for manuals. The Bedford one comes in 5 parts.

 ts.503 for the 214 cu inch or ts.504 for the 300 cu inch.
ts 507 trans,prop shaft, rear axle.
ts508 steering brakes
ts509 chassis suspension cab etc
ts510 electrical.
The following user(s) said Thank You: 180wannabe, cobbadog, PaulFH, Splod

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
1 week 6 days ago - 1 week 6 days ago #250526 by jon_d
No,  they are very different to the traditional slaves.
A bit like a wedge system.

Don't break it. They are $300- $600 to replace


remove the top little screw.  (DON'T LOOSE IT)
use the hand brake rod to undo the piston from the bisector shaft
undo 2 holding nuts and pipe
 gently remove.

Also, you'll most likely need to remove and clean/grease the bisector arrangement.

 

 
Last edit: 1 week 6 days ago by jon_d.
The following user(s) said Thank You: 180wannabe, cobbadog, PaulFH, Splod

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.416 seconds