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Field Marshall Series 2 Resto

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13 years 3 months ago #57225 by Slimline871
Gday,
Thought id share some pics of the latest project, She's had a pretty hard paper round, but slowly going to give her a new lease of life!
Cheers,
Slim ;)









F****D main bearing housing-VF crawler one will fit









&&1924 Hart-Parr Type 20&&1966 Chamberlain super 90&&1959 Twin City G-vi&

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13 years 3 months ago #57226 by Bugly
Am I seeing it right Slim ... just a single banger? Solid looking crankshaft too.

1948 Fordson E83W 10/10 pickup

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13 years 3 months ago #57227 by brisbeddy
I like your Sling, just goes to Show how versatile Gardenhose can be.
Particularly when protecting Crankshafts from harm through handling.
I will put this into my useful File.

It sucks to get old and decrepit !

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13 years 3 months ago #57228 by brisbeddy
Further to my last Post.
I presume that there is something a bit more substantial inside said Gardenhose and if there isn't, even more Reason to put into the useful File.

It sucks to get old and decrepit !

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13 years 3 months ago #57229 by Slimline871
Well....
As you can see, Ive used the more expensive braided variety, so she's good for 125 psi!

&&1924 Hart-Parr Type 20&&1966 Chamberlain super 90&&1959 Twin City G-vi&

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13 years 3 months ago #57230 by q4016lanz
You have taken on a big project there slim i have a fowler vf in the shed that has problems i have been putting it off it looks too complicated to me the old lanz bulldogs are bad enough to work on setting up the oil pump timing getting the fly wheels and keyway out and so on hats off to you slim you are doing a bloody good job there slim. ;) john

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13 years 3 months ago #57231 by Slimline871
Thanks John,
I struggled with stubborn keys too, until a mate showed me his method. Just weld a length of all thread to the end of the key and use a porta power with a hollow ram to pop em out. Pretty much a 99% success rate with even the most rusted old keys and the added bonus is you dont destroy the key.
Cheers mate,
Slim ;)

&&1924 Hart-Parr Type 20&&1966 Chamberlain super 90&&1959 Twin City G-vi&

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13 years 3 months ago #57232 by insomniac
Just wait till you go to crank the thing lolololol.
Did that as a teenager and yer can do it but its hard slog two blokes is better.
You need at least four rings set on the compression lifter wheel.

Prime it before starting ___four turns back n forth on the flywheel and you can hear the injector squeek with each prime one for each turn of the crank handle m`bee.

Where will you get your black powder cartridges to shoot start it ?
Hodgsons ?--- unload a pile of shotgun shells mebe ?.

If your quick when you shut it down and catch the flywheel going the wrong way hit the throttle it will run back wards --believe me ive done it, and so did the poor old ex horse driver we had on the farm ,, only he near stalled it on a big malleee stump and hen backed it up on the plough behind and walked home and demanded his horse team back.
Dont do it for too long tho as the oiler pump dont work in reverse.

Beautifully engineered though ---I wonder about getting head seal rubbers n things for it too.
Probably need to get them specially made from and old one for a pattern.

True story.
Might be I could even direct you to some old owners n parts but that`s a long stretch of maybe there still in the district tho and were neighbors back then.

DDD

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13 years 3 months ago #57233 by Slimline871
Beautifully engineered though ---I wonder about getting head seal rubbers n things for it too.
Probably need to get them specially made from and old one for a pattern.


6mm insertion rubber, turned up some hole punches on the lathe and jobs right ;)

&&1924 Hart-Parr Type 20&&1966 Chamberlain super 90&&1959 Twin City G-vi&

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13 years 3 months ago #57234 by insomniac
Yep Orta do it ok.
From old memory we used to need to do a ring job every 500 hrs and clean up the compression valve stuff as well.
Cranks were as sloppy as all B****y but it does not matter as they float being a two stroke and such low revs.
Make them to tight and they *will* sieze---seen it happen.

Another caution seeing as you have it all in bits.
The crank bearing is sling fed from that inverted ring on the inside.
It has a very small hole in it to feed the main bearing.

I saw one seized up from a head of cocky chaff {bit bigger than a matched size } block that hole.
So don`t loose any bit of some thing left in there.
That`s why the oil filler had that really fine screen in the spout.
They were a good old banger and would hang in forever under a load, just dont park em too long on the mud flats or they bury themselves--true --seen it happen.

Very interesting --keep me informed as you go and good luck with it.
If you do actually need some help I will scan my old resources for you--just in case ???.

DDD ;D

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