Karrier rebuild

"And now the fun begins!"
Chassis back from sandblasters, tidied up and etch primer sprayed.
Started mocking up just where engine/transmission(s) have to sit, just sitting on top of the chassis at the moment. Bit of plumbing has to be modified, may get away without disturbing the crossmember that the main box is sitting on. Radiator was bolted to the actual cabin originally, can possibly use original transverse engine mount location. Fair bit of fabrication required re engine mount to chassis plates etc.
Replacement engine not as tall, but wider than original 4 banger Humber, so going to be a bit of panel beating required on engine hatch. Engine offset from centre line works out about one inch to drivers side as per original, if turbo clears chassis rail when lowered into chassis, may centralise it.
Cheers, Dave

Hmmmm? I realise it's not a Karrier, but, nice windscreen frames (and cab) - but unfortinately not for sale :dry: :whistle:

This is now the easy bit after all the gearbox mods
What is the motor ??? You have no doubt told us but my brain aint as good as it should be

Paul

PDU, that shed looks in pretty good nick. Paul, sticker on top of engine says Perkins 4:203, handbook also tells me that one piece windscreen version of Bantam also came out with that engine. So, for the purpose of the exercise, what looks suspiciously like a Land Rover 2.5 litre turbo/ intercool engine may have been inadvertently dropped in. Hey, mistakes happen! Dave

On the scrounge for a bit of info. Spent the day shoehorning the new engine/trans where it roughly has to sit, may have had a minor win as engine mounts/ crossmembers are within adapter plate spacings.
Seems I recall quite some time ago someone was asking about a chart for setting up driveline tolerances and allowable degrees variations, I'm sure I saw it on here somewhere.
I asked a driveline bloke and about all he really told me was the shorter the shaft, or the steeper the angle, the more critical it becomes. Think I read it on here that on a short shaft a tolerance of one or two degrees was tolerable (as in a jack shaft or transfer case shaft), get a bit more leeway over a longer length. Because I'm virtually starting from scratch, want to try and get as close as possible.
Just on that, I recall many years ago when tinkering with old jeeps, they use to run some really large offsets, sometimes up to two inches kicked sideways to allow for front diff clearances. So, would I be right in saying that as long as the corresponding flange faces are within allowable parallels, I may be able to get away with a bit of an offset in both the jackshaft as well as the rear tailshaft?? I reckon if I can scrounge an inch (25-30mm MAX) towards the passenger side, make life easier for myself with the transmission pump as well as the linkages. Remembering that the jack shaft is roughly the same length as an Inter 4X4 island setup, 8-10" max??
Rear tailshaft is quite a heavy unit, 4" O.D. but it will be shortened down to about 46" from original 68".
If anyone can direct me to a site who may have the relevant driveline specs, would be invaluable help. Remembering that I am hopeless on a computer, so the simpler the info the better. I'm no engineer, just a buffoon truck driver and an old burnt out one at that!
Many Thanks, Dave_64

Dave, I was looking at driveline angles for my Atkinson. From my recollection the angle you can run is impacted by the rpm and the universal operating life that you are looking for. I think I found the info I required on spicer website. For my application I worked out I could live with an 8 degree angle @ 2300rpm. I can't find the exact publication I used but these might be a starting point.

spicerparts.com/calculators/driveline-op...ing-angle-calculator

spicerparts.com/anglemaster/measuring-angles

infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regu...tionC_Tailshafts.pdf

Dave,
Sent you an email with some info
Cheers Steve

Hey Dave, since your a bit of an experimenter, I thought I might plant a seed in your head- could you make up a driveshaft using CV joints?

D/D, that's a damn good question! Don't know really why not, very similar in principle to the old wartime "Rzeppa" front drive shafts, I think! I was kicking around the idea of overcoming a tight siuation once before with a very short driveline in a 2WD Jeep and the best way out of it was to try and use a double cardan shaft. Shafts and joints were worth more than the project. As to using the CV joint to make up a shaft, bet your life someone on this forum can give us the drum. Dave