Getting this 86' 6 cyl Trader work ready

Some more stuff.

Luckily I had been acquiring Trader / Mazda parts for a while now. I tried to buy as much NOS as possible when it came up for sale.
The headlights were next to see a pull apart and clean along with painting the underside of the cab with sound deadener.

 

 

Some H4 type lamps to replace these sealed ones with go in later.

 

 

 






.


 

Under the cab got an extra coat of deadener.

 

 

Some new side air deflectors needed to be painted and installed in matching colours. Weird how there are 4 different types of these plastic bolt on bits to suit different models even thought they ll look the same.

 

Along with a freshly re finished grille, this one is in good condition but I would like a new one if they are still around. The chromebrite paint helped.

 

 

 

I went to Bunnings n bought a roll of heat shield sound deadening self adhesive stuff with silver reflective one side. It really quietened down the cab inside. Was not pricey either.

Ahhh, Bunnings, the place where dreams are made. 

Yeah thanks Cobba,  I must look at that insulation, inside under dash and behind the seats would be good for starters.

One thing that annoys me with these earlier cab Traders are the plastic step inserts as they like to become slippery particularly on job sites or after filling at a servo due to diesel usually on the ground.
They don't really lend themselves to applying anti slip tape etc.

 

 

The later cab design had the step open and made from a softer type of material.

I want to use these old Louisville clearance lights and thought I would see what they looked like. The rubber gaskets have long decayed, so it looks like something I'll have to make. (or buy new if I can)

 

Couple of other things crossed off the list. Some nos Gabriel Blue Ryder rear shocks.

 

and re fitting the least bent bumper I had This one was modified as it came off the Mazda bus chassis. Painted in, yes you guessed it Chromebrite.
I see a nice new chrome one in the future.

 

You can see some rear round aluminium mudguards in the picture, yet to be featured.
stay tuned........





 

My go to {WA) is Clark Rubber for insulation material. Did my F350 with it along with Dyna Mat, certainly cuts the noise and heat transfer. Plain side undelay type and twin density foam with a foil skin.
Cheers

Blackduck59 wrote:

My go to {WA) is Clark Rubber for insulation material. Did my F350 with it along with Dyna Mat, certainly cuts the noise and heat transfer. Plain side undelay type and twin density foam with a foil skin.
Cheers
 

Yes, I hear good things about Dynamat. 
Just wondering how well these fit under the standard vinyl floor coverings as the vinyl is a tight fit as is.

There's definitely no carpet used in my trucks.

Rock,

If you're chasing sound deadening material.  Try Mass Loaded Vinyl.   These guys have an outlet near Yarraville.    It's brilliant.  I have a Isuzu 6BG1 turbo next to my knee.  I can here and talk with  the missus and kids at 100k's.

 eg  www.soundproofingproducts.com.au/product...2-mass-loaded-vinyl/     Heaviest is best.   It's glued together using clear PVC plumbers glue. And to metal using contact cement.

or from the manufacturer and cheaper.  thermotec.com.au/shop/products/nuwave-base-acoustic-barrier

jon_d wrote:

Rock,

If you're chasing sound deadening material.  Try Mass Loaded Vinyl.   These guys have an outlet near Yarraville.    It's brilliant.  I have a Isuzu 6BG1 turbo next to my knee.  I can here and talk with  the missus and kids at 100k's.

 eg  www.soundproofingproducts.com.au/product...2-mass-loaded-vinyl/     Heaviest is best.   It's glued together using clear PVC plumbers glue. And to metal using contact cement.

or from the manufacturer and cheaper.  thermotec.com.au/shop/products/nuwave-base-acoustic-barrier




 

Thanks, good to see it's made in Oz too.

Mudguards.......
I'm no Lelox so don't be so harsh on this attempt at aluminium butchery.
With some 1mm sheet I had in the shed it was a good time to practice making these rear guards to attach to the underside of the tray when installed.

 

I used the tyres to get the curve I wanted so they could eventually end in a slightly bigger radius.

   

It was a bugger gradually bending over the edges to create any strength in it using a couple of shifters. 



Worst bit was I knew I had to do it all over again on the other side.
I'll call it acceptable within tolerance for now. Hangers can then be made for the tray.

 

It's time now to move over to the steel tray. Next......
 

Onto the beaver tray.

The idea of using a beaver tail instead of a regular flat top at the quarry will allow me to take along a mini skid steer or the little JD ride on
(I'm also modifying into a front end loader)
It will be good to have a little mechanical help from years of hand loading and off loading granite at and from the quarries I go to.
Sometimes off loading delicate square edged stone gets a little old. Every stone I lay is handpicked from the quarry so no heavy machine (8T)  loading takes place..

The first thing needed to be done was extend the slot in which the ramps hook into. This will allow the ramps to be moved closer together for the smaller track of the JD but also allow a regular car to be loaded. (not that I'm a tow truck NSW !!)

 

ramps can be moved side to side easily and painted. In my favourite Rustoleum.white

 

 

 

A good clean, de-grease and wire wheel was good enough for the underside of the tray before some more Rustoleum will hit the steel.

 




 

Hi,

I have a car trailer with the same arrangement for hooking the ramps into the channel on the rear trailer that you have. Initially the ramps were like yours where the right angle 'hook' at the top was inside the outer rails but what happened a few times was if the vehicle got a little skewed the weight on the edge of the rails would cause them to flip up sideways. After a few close calls, even had to resort to using a jack or two to get the weight off the ramp so I could get it back into place, I welded right angle 'hooks' across the top that extended past the width of the rails and this stabilised things and no issues since.

Terry